Ask anyone in Little Washington what they love about the town and, most likely, they will say the river. An early summer trip to the small eastern North Carolina town charmed and disarmed me. . .and left me wanting to spend some more time on the water. Here are three ways to explore Washington by boat and by bike.
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Kayaking the Pamlico
It’s late afternoon on an early summer day and a rainbow of vibrant kayaks fills the bank on one side of Castle Island across from downtown Washington. A folding table set up in the shallow waters is filled to the brim with snacks–juicy, local strawberries and a cinnamon yogurt dip, spicy tuna dip, assorted crackers and cheeses, amongst other nosh. A posse of paddlers decked in hats and sunglasses laugh, visit, and sip wine as the Pamlico River laps at their feet. It’s the first Wine and Paddle of the season hosted by Inner Banks Outfitters.
"We had over 40 people," says owner Liane Harsh, as a warm, wide grin spreads across her sun-kissed face and she adjusts the weathered baseball cap resting on her shock of silver hair. "Mary from Wine and Words downtown came to lead the class and tell us about the different wines we were tasting. It was a night! Man, everyone loved it."
The Wine and Cheese Paddle is one of a few events Liane regularly hosts from her kayak and bike shop (check the website for the upcoming dates). The popular event starts at the Inner Bank Outfitters’ kayak launch at the confluence of the Pamlico River and Runyon Creek. The group paddles their way to Castle Island where they bank up and de-boat for the wine party. Liane likes to say it’s "wine in hand, feet in sand," while you enjoy the company of your friends and learn a little about the wines you’re tasting.
We’re chatting in her roadside outfitters. Her bearded colleague has a banana seat bike in the vice behind the desk, fixing the chain. He nods his head and chuckles as we chat.
"I’ve been here for 15 years," she tells me. "We just keep growing and changing. We started with this main building, then expanded to the two new buildings and put them on stilts after the last hurricane when we flooded. Now, everything goes up there before a big storm."
There’s no other word but "cool" to describe her shop. Kayaks, life vests, bikes, and gear surround us, both for sale and rent. Outside on the left side of the parking lot is a shiny, silver Airstream trailer that serves as the t-shirt shop for Inner Banks Outfitters and Backwater Jack’s Bar and Restaurant next door. As I look around, she tells me about all the ways to get out and see Washington and the river.
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Paddle Board the Pamlico
In the mornings, join athletes of all levels to test your balance with stand-up paddle board yoga (SUP yoga).
"We host SUP Yoga every Saturday at 8 a.m. all summer long," says Liane. "Folks can bring their own or rent a board for $15 for an hour of yoga. Nothing is expected of anyone. Some fall in constantly, but there’s no judgement. It’s just fun."
I mention that I’d probably be in the water with the very first down dog and ask Liane if she teaches it. "Oh no," she says, letting out a big belly laugh. "I definitely leave that to a qualified instructor. But you really don’t need to be good at yoga to give it a try. It’s a blast."
If you prefer to explore the waters on your own, Liane recommends renting a SUP or kayak and heading down Runyon Creek. "It’s a mile out and back. It’s like Africa vs. the ocean. Tons of turtles, kingfishers, cypress trees, and other nature, as the creek gets narrow and narrower," she says.
Most paddlers head out to the Pamlico River where they can cruise the shoreline, circle Castle Island, and spy osprey, herons, turtles, dolphins, and even bald eagles.
"There’s nothing like seeing Washington from the water," says Liane. "Most people rent kayaks and just go, making their own path, exploring the creeks and the Pamlico. We offer advice when asked, but it really is easy to get out there on the river where you get a great breeze and can go look at town."
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Pedal around the Waterfront
If you’re not a fan of getting wet, rent a cruiser or road bike and make your own tour on land. Inner Banks Outfitters is also a bike shop and can give your bike a tune up or set you up with a new or used bike to purchase. Bike downtown, only a 10-to-15-minute ride from Liane’s shop, or take a left from Inner Banks Outfitters and explore the historic Washington Park neighborhood. The roads are wide and easy to navigate.
For a more rustic ride, take your bike out to Goose Creek State Park. You’ll be rewarded with a ride through live oaks draped in Spanish moss, trails through coastal wetlands, and turtles sunbathing by the road. There’s also a serene swimming beach at the back end of the park where you can cool off. While you’re there, check out the Environmental Education and Visitor Center for a comprehensive overview of the flora and fauna in the area, list of hiking trails, and camping and boating information. Surrounded by taxidermy of local wildlife, don’t miss the exhibit that dares you to sniff what the marsh smells like.
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Paddle or pedal, after returning your rental at Inner Banks, you definitely want to head next door to Backwater Jack’s. The owners are Liane’s friends and make the best burger in town. They also regularly host live music and open mic nights.
"I love it here," said Liane. "The river of course is my favorite part, but the people are friendly and there’s usually live music somewhere. There are so many weird, funky things to see and do in Washington, on and off the water."
Next time you’re within driving distance of eastern North Carolina, make a stop into Little Washington and go see Inner Banks Outfitters for yourself. Rent a kayak, stand up paddle board, or bike and get out to see why everyone you meet is as warm and friendly as Liane. You won’t regret it.
Inner Banks Outfitters
1050 E Main St, Washington, NC 27889
(252) 975-3006
Goose Creek State Park
2190 Camp Leach Rd, Washington, NC 27889
(252) 923-2191